You want to talk about Odesa. Fine. Let's talk about a city that's spent a couple of centuries being told what it is, usually by people who only ever saw the reflection of their own myth-making.
If you find yourself wandering the streets of Kyiv, Lviv, or even far-off Toronto or Chicago on the third Thursday in May, don't be surprised if you spot hundreds of people—young and old—wearing beautifully embroidered shirts. This is Vyshyvanka Day, and in Ukraine, it's not just fashion. It's identity.